Gundam Eclipse
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Gundam Eclipse is Moving!

September 26, 2018 — by tc012009

An important announcement was posted in GE Forum News regarding the future of the community. The forum had accumulated 240 topics and approximately 1,900 posts in its announcements section by this time.

  • Posted in GE Forum News
  • Final recorded announcement in the section

Moderoid 1/60 SAVAGE CROSSBOW

Candy Coat Red Over Silver for Striking Mecha Builds

A candy coat paint effect uses a transparent colour over a bright metallic base. With clear red sprayed over silver, light passes through the red, reflects from the metal underneath, and returns as a deep, glossy ruby finish. The result can make armour panels look richer than a flat red lacquer.

The finish is highly adjustable. A pale silver base and a few thin red coats create a bright cherry tone, while darker metallics and additional clear layers produce a deeper crimson. The key is controlling every layer, since the transparent red reveals uneven coverage, dust and surface scratches.

This method suits Gundam armour, mecha weapons, thruster bells and small detail parts, but it rewards patience more than speed. Test the complete paint sequence on spare runners or an unused spoon before committing to a visible kit section.

Builders in Australia also need to account for local conditions. Sydney and Brisbane humidity can slow curing, while dry Adelaide or inland weather may make paint flash off too quickly. A cool, ventilated workspace and careful storage are useful year-round, especially when summer temperatures climb.

Prepare the surface before painting

Wash mould-release residue from the parts with warm water and mild dishwashing liquid, then let them dry fully. Remove nub marks and seam lines before priming, because a candy finish magnifies scratches and changes in texture rather than hiding them.

Apply a smooth primer coat, preferably in light grey or white if the part has translucent edges or fine detail. Lightly sand imperfections with fine abrasive paper, then remove sanding dust with a clean, lint-free cloth. Avoid touching the surface repeatedly, as skin oils can cause fish-eyes.

Choose the metallic foundation

Silver is the classic base because it gives clear red a bright, reflective appearance. A highly polished chrome-like silver produces a vivid candy finish, while satin or aluminium silver creates a softer, less mirror-like result. Test both if you want contrast between armour panels.

A dark metallic base can create burgundy or wine-red tones, but it may reduce the luminous quality. Lacquer or acrylic metallics can work well, provided the products are compatible and each layer has cured properly. Keep the same paint system where possible to reduce the chance of lifting or crazing.

Build a flawless silver coat

Spray the metallic base in several light passes rather than trying to cover the part in one wet coat. Overloading the surface can cause pooling around panel lines and corners, which becomes obvious beneath transparent red. Allow the silver to level and cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

For a polished appearance, gently buff the cured silver with a clean microfibre cloth or a very fine polishing material. Do not aggressively abrade raised edges or sharp details. Masking can then be used to create two-tone armour, but burnish tape edges carefully so the clear colour cannot creep underneath.

Apply clear red in controlled layers

Thin the clear red only as recommended for the paint system, then spray at a consistent distance and angle. Begin with a light mist coat to improve adhesion, followed by several translucent passes. Let each pass flash off before adding the next; the colour should deepen gradually rather than become opaque.

Keep track of the number of coats on each part. Uneven overlap causes darker bands, especially on broad shoulder armour. If a panel looks too dark, do not try to correct it with extra spraying elsewhere. Let it cure, then assess whether the difference can become an intentional colour variation.

Manage edges, shadows and panel lines

Candy red naturally pools around recessed details and sharp corners. This can be attractive on mechanical parts, but excessive pooling may obscure panel lines. Spray with the part rotated between passes, and use a lower paint flow when working near vents, hinges and deep recesses.

For stronger definition, panel line the silver before applying clear red only when the products are known to be compatible. In many builds, it is safer to apply panel lines after the colour has cured. A dark red or brown line can look more integrated than stark black under a translucent finish.

Protect the colour with a clear coat

A final clear coat evens out the sheen and protects the transparent red from handling. Gloss clear preserves the wet candy appearance, while semi-gloss gives a more practical finish for a display model that will be dusted regularly. Apply it in light coats so the solvent does not disturb the colour beneath.

Australian hobbyists should spray in a suitable ventilated area and follow the product label and local workplace safety guidance. A proper respirator, eye protection and sensible ventilation matter more than a makeshift setup. Do not spray near gas appliances, open flames or food preparation areas, and check disposal requirements for solvent-soaked materials under your state or territory rules.

Fix common problems without starting over

Cloudiness often comes from moisture, an incompatible clear coat or spraying in cool, damp conditions. Leave the part undisturbed until fully cured before judging it. Runs may be levelled carefully after curing with fine abrasive paper, then polished and recoated with thin layers.

If the silver shows through unevenly, the red coat is probably too thin in some areas or the metallic base was inconsistent. For advice on a troublesome build, a post in the Gundam Eclipse community can attract practical feedback from builders familiar with different airbrushes, paints and climate conditions.

Finish goal Metallic base Clear red approach Final clear
Bright cherry red Bright silver or chrome Two to four thin coats Gloss
Deep crimson Dark silver or gunmetal Several controlled coats Gloss or semi-gloss
Softer industrial red Satin aluminium Light, even coverage Semi-gloss
High-contrast detail Mixed silver shades Different coat counts by panel Matching sheen

Keep a written record of the primer, metallic, thinner ratio, air pressure and number of transparent coats. That small habit makes it much easier to reproduce a successful colour across an entire mobile suit.

If a project needs specific paint compatibility advice or a second opinion on a finish, use the contact page to reach the site team. Then share the completed build or work-in-progress photos with fellow builders so the next candy coat becomes easier for everyone.

A member-contributed review of the Moderoid 1/60 SAVAGE CROSSBOW kit, published in the Gundam Eclipse Reviews section. The reviews area hosted 246 topics and roughly 1,400 posts.

PG 00 Gundam

November 4, 2018 — by heathorn

A completed Perfect Grade 00 Gundam build showcased in The Display Case. This section featured approximately 2,200 topics and 24,900 posts, making it one of the forum's largest galleries of finished work.

HG Zeta Gundam Evolution Project

2018 — by kajnrig

An ongoing High Grade Zeta Gundam customization project shared in the Work-in-Progress Thread. This was the most active section on the forum, with roughly 1,400 topics and 34,300 posts where members exchanged feedback and progress updates.