Gundam Eclipse
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Gundam Eclipse is Moving!

September 26, 2018 — by tc012009

An important announcement was posted in GE Forum News regarding the future of the community. The forum had accumulated 240 topics and approximately 1,900 posts in its announcements section by this time.

  • Posted in GE Forum News
  • Final recorded announcement in the section

Moderoid 1/60 SAVAGE CROSSBOW

Creating Realistic Gun Barrel Openings With A Hand Drill

A convincing gun barrel opening can transform a good Gundam build into a sharply finished display piece. The trick is rarely brute force; it is careful marking, a controlled hand drill, and enough patience to create a clean rim without splitting the plastic.

This method suits beginners working at the kitchen table as well as experienced builders in a dedicated shed. It is especially useful for 1/144 High Grade kits, where moulded weapon details can look shallow under paint, and for 1/100 Master Grade projects where a little extra depth makes the scale feel more believable.

Choose The Right Tools And Drill Bits

A pin vise, sometimes called a precision hand drill, is the safest starting point. Choose a double-ended handle with a chuck that accepts small bits, rather than a large hobby drill designed for heavy work. High-speed rotary tools can melt polystyrene, widen a hole too quickly, and leave a rough crater around the muzzle.

Use sharp bits in graduated sizes. A useful selection for Gunpla includes 0.5 mm, 0.8 mm, 1 mm, 1.2 mm, and 1.5 mm. You may also want a larger bit for lightly chamfering the outer edge, but never begin with the final diameter.

For Australian builders, these supplies are easy to find through specialist model shops, online hobby retailers, or the tools aisle at Bunnings. A pin vise is also light enough to add to a parcel of imported kits without dramatically increasing postage, which matters when local stock is limited.

Mark The Centre Before Drilling

Remove the weapon from the kit if possible and support it on a firm cutting mat. Inspect the muzzle from several angles. Some barrels are slightly oval, tapered, or moulded with a raised ring, so the visual centre may not be exactly where a mould seam suggests.

Place a tiny pencil dot at the centre, then use a sharp hobby blade or needle to make a shallow pilot mark. This indentation stops the first drill bit skating across the surface. On dark armour, a white pencil or a small spot of masking tape can make the mark easier to see.

Hold the pin vise like a pen and rotate it between your fingers. Keep the drill aligned with the barrel rather than forcing it forward. If the bit starts to wander, withdraw it, check the angle, and restart from the pilot mark. A crooked hole is much harder to repair than a hole that is slightly too small.

Build The Opening In Graduated Steps

Start with the smallest bit that will remove material from the centre. Turn it slowly for a few rotations, then withdraw it to clear plastic dust. Increase the diameter one step at a time, checking the opening after each pass. This creates a round, controlled bore and protects the thin muzzle wall.

The following guide gives a useful starting point, though the exact size should follow the weapon’s scale and design.

Weapon scale Pilot bit Typical final opening Useful finish
Small 1/144 rifle 0.5 mm 0.8–1.0 mm Dark wash
Large 1/144 cannon 0.5 mm 1.2–1.5 mm Inner sleeve
1/100 rifle 0.8 mm 1.5–2.0 mm Metallic bore
1/100 bazooka 1.0 mm 2.0–3.0 mm Layered barrel insert

Stop before the hole reaches the outer edge. The remaining ring should be even all the way around. If the plastic is thin, drill from both sides only when the design allows it; otherwise, use a smaller final opening and preserve the strength of the part.

Add Depth With A Recess Or Insert

A deep black dot can look painted on, so give the barrel interior a visible step. Drill a narrow pilot tunnel first, then widen only the front section with a larger bit. This creates a recessed shoulder that catches a small highlight and makes the opening appear deeper.

For a more mechanical finish, insert a short piece of brass tube, aluminium tube, or spare plastic rod with its centre drilled out. Australian hobby shops and online suppliers often stock K&S-style tubing, while leftover sprue can work for less exposed areas. Test-fit the insert before applying glue, because excess cement can fog the rim or soften the surrounding detail.

Paint the inside before final assembly where possible. A near-black colour with a touch of blue or brown often looks more natural than pure black. Paint the outer muzzle separately in the weapon’s main colour, then add a restrained drybrush or metallic edge highlight to suggest wear rather than a freshly polished pipe.

Keep The Muzzle Clean And Symmetrical

Several small habits prevent the most common hand-drilling errors:

  • Secure the part without crushing or bending it.
  • Clear swarf frequently instead of forcing the bit.
  • Use light pressure and let the cutting edge remove the plastic.
  • Compare the opening against the barrel ring from straight on.

When the drilling is complete, gently scrape the rim with the back of a hobby blade. A fine sanding sponge wrapped around a narrow tool can remove burrs, but avoid aggressive sanding on a thin lip. Wash the part in mild soapy water before painting to remove plastic dust and fingerprints.

If a hole becomes oversized, do not discard the weapon immediately. Fill it with a short styrene rod, let the cement cure fully, and redrill the centre. For a split muzzle, liquid plastic cement may close a minor gap, while a larger break is better repaired with two-part putty and careful sanding.

Finish The Weapon And Share The Result

A few final checks help the modification sit naturally within the full mobile suit:

  • View the barrel at display distance, not only under magnification.
  • Match the bore depth across paired weapons.
  • Use panel wash sparingly around the muzzle.
  • Photograph the opening with side lighting to show the recess.

This technique also works on verniers, sensor housings, missile pods, and thruster nozzles. If you are documenting a complete custom build, the Gundam Eclipse reviews section can provide useful comparison points for surface detail, scale consistency, and finishing quality.

A drilled barrel becomes more convincing when the surrounding weapon has the same level of care. Add subtle seam removal, sharpen a few panel lines, and consider a small accessory or figure to establish scale. For display ideas involving the pilot and machine together, this custom pilot figure guide is a natural companion project.

Post your finished weapon or work-in-progress photos in the Gundam Eclipse community and include the bit sizes, kit grade, and paint choices. If you need advice about a difficult part or want to share a correction to this method, send it through the Gundam Eclipse contact page so other builders can benefit from the discussion.

A member-contributed review of the Moderoid 1/60 SAVAGE CROSSBOW kit, published in the Gundam Eclipse Reviews section. The reviews area hosted 246 topics and roughly 1,400 posts.

PG 00 Gundam

November 4, 2018 — by heathorn

A completed Perfect Grade 00 Gundam build showcased in The Display Case. This section featured approximately 2,200 topics and 24,900 posts, making it one of the forum's largest galleries of finished work.

HG Zeta Gundam Evolution Project

2018 — by kajnrig

An ongoing High Grade Zeta Gundam customization project shared in the Work-in-Progress Thread. This was the most active section on the forum, with roughly 1,400 topics and 34,300 posts where members exchanged feedback and progress updates.